THE FIGHT BEGINS
My first experience in
the food business was hunting chicken eggs on my father's farm near
Verona, Illinois. He was a very conscientious farmer of 320 acres of
land, 100 head of cattle, numerous pigs, chickens and other animals
that made up our farm. My earliest memories are of farm life and farm
chores, and until I moved away to college as a young man, raising
food was my life.
Memories of the food we
ate are also vivid in my recollection. I remember how my mother would
go the kitchen while we were doing chores and whip up a huge "farm
breakfast" for us eight children. We'd gobble the pancakes,
eggs, fried potatoes, ham and sausage hungrily, and smother it all
with butter and a variety of jams and syrups.
We raised most of the
food that we ate, but everything was cooked in the usual American
way. Peeled potatoes, meat with gravy, and vegetables cooked to
limpness were our standard fare. Actually, my mother's cooking was
considered quite good at the time. In fact, it was much better than
food of 1993—over-processed, overcooked and over-sweetened. Our
favorite meal was Saturday noon dinner — lots of great northern
bean soup with a pork hock in it. When snack time came we had a
little soda pop—three ounces — and a little of the other junk and
convenience foods that were typical of the diet of many Americans in
the '50s. Our folks rationed them because they were very expensive.
There weren't nearly as many junk foods on the market then, so our
eating habits weren't too bad, at least by today's standards compared
to the diet of the '90s, our family's diet was very good. My family
always planted a large garden so that we had lots of fresh vegetables
to eat from June to November, and my mother did a lot of freezing and
canning of the fresh vegetables, without adding any preservatives. My
parents always bought many bushels of apples, which we stored in our
well pit, and sometimes they even went to Georgia, to buy fresh
tree-ripened peaches.
In October my father
always went to the farmers in Central Wisconsin, and bought many
bushels of potatoes, which we consumed with the skins on. But some
aspects of our diet weren't the best either. My mother sometimes made
our bread, but other times she bought bread to fill us up. This bread
was always the cheapest white bread in the store. My father
complained about the limp, pasty stuff, but there was no other kind
of bread available in the stores. Dad would grouch that a 39-cent
loaf contained only two cents of grain, and that it was the miller
and the baker who were robbing us. In fact, my father complained
about the taste and cost of all processed foods. He used to tell us
about the time my Grandfather got his first spoonful of a newfangled
invention called "corn flakes." Not fooled by the cereal's
sweet taste, Grandpa proclaimed, "If you put milk and sugar on
sawdust, it'd taste good too!'
Despite Dad's
dissatisfaction with processed food, fresh fruits and vegetables were
rather scarce during the winter months, and the only vitamin
supplements we knew about were the ones we gave our livestock.
Nonetheless, we would
always look forward to Mom's return from her weekly shopping trips;
she would invariably stop for a dozen glazed doughnuts on the way
home — and did we love them! My brothers and sisters and I could
finish the whole package in no time, and I remember thinking that
nothing in the world could ever taste as good as a glazed doughnut.
The lunches I took to
the one-room school I attended were always white-bread sandwiches,
and in high school I ate the typical starchy, fatty fare of the
cafeteria. About all you could say for our school hot-lunch program
was that it was indeed hot. We could go back for seconds, and we were
encouraged to gorge ourselves on surplus spaghetti and other
leftovers.
Looking back from the
vantage of my subsequent learning, I now see some of the effects that
our sugary, fatty, high protein diet was having on my family and
friends. It was considered natural then, despite our huge breakfasts,
that we would be hungry again in an hour or two. By the time we got
to school, we were looking for something to eat, and we'd start
nibbling on anything we could get from friends or local stores. It
was also common that after a Herculean noon dinner we would all lie
down for a twenty-minute nap, the weight of the heavy food in our
stomachs making our eyelids just as heavy. A well-trained
nutritionist would instantly recognize this as the hypoglycemic
effect, the disorder that occurs when the blood-sugar level goes on a
wild roller-coaster ride after you eat too much sugar and refined
starch. We thought it was perfectly normal.
I also recognize that
it was our eating habits that tended to make everybody I knew heavy.
My father weighed 220 pounds, and my mother always watched her
weight. Nearly all of the girls I went to school with had noticeable
weight problems, but it just seemed so natural and normal for
everybody to be heavy like that. It was a very rare thing for someone
to be slim. The only one in my family who escaped chunkiness was my
older sister, who always ate like a bird. She would never eat more
than a tablespoon of any vegetable, nor more than an ounce of meat at
a time. But there was a tendency to think that there was something
wrong with a slim person, and we thought it was very strange that my
sister did not eat like the rest of us.
One thing that food did
not affect at first was my deliberation over what I was going to do
with my life. In grade school, we had a workbook called 'Think and
Do." My father loved that title and constantly repeated it to us
kids — Think and Do. I believe that has helped me all of my life.
Another family saying
that has impacted my life is from the tombstone of my Grandfather,
who died the same month I was born. Each year on Father's Day, we
would visit his grave and celebrate with a picnic under the mulberry
tree my grandfather had planted. The epitaph on his tombstone
reads, "He who helps others, lives not in vain." When I was
trying to decide on a career, I had two good values to build on —
"think and do" and "he who helps others, lives not in
vain."
The day after I
graduated from high school, I decided that I wanted to do something
important with my life, and my high school guidance counsellor said
I'd probably be pretty good at anything I tried. I decided to become
a nuclear scientist. I left for Beloit College in Beloit, Wisconsin,
with that thought in mind, but after my first physics course I
decided that perhaps medicine would be a better field for me. When I
attempted to get into medical school, however, I found I lacked the
necessary money, grades or influential relatives to pull it off, so I
began graduate studies in endocrinology at the University of
Wisconsin at Madison, and later changed my focus to biochemistry.
It was my basic
"do-good" attitude toward life that made me want to enter
medical school in the first place; thinking that, as a doctor, I
could help the under-privileged people of the world. With that road
closed, I felt that biochemistry would be another field in which I
could help solve the problem of world hunger. Unfortunately, I found
that biochemistry and nutrition courses were not taught with that in
mind at all. They were approached as dry, stuffy disciplines, devoid
of enthusiasm or relevance to real life. I sat through the
seemingly endless lectures on carbohydrate metabolism and enzyme
transfer, hoping that the professor would devote at least the last
lecture to explaining how all of this technical information we were
jotting in our notebooks and cramming in our heads applied to real
life and everyday eating. But when that final lecture did come, the
professor would almost brush the subject off by telling us that these
things were not to be worried about, and that a person would get all
of the nutrients he needed just by eating a variety of foods on a
regular basis. I was a bit disappointed, but I believed what he
said and accepted it as being as valid as his explanations of
molecular metabolic processes.
If I could have made a
connection between the things he was telling me and the drowsiness,
hunger, crabbiness and overweight of my youth, perhaps I could have
seen the fallacy of my professors' nutritional advice. But I didn't
make the connection, and neither did my fellow students, nor my
professors, nor any of the nutritionists and biochemical academicians
of the time. The reason is not difficult to understand: The education
I and those who teach nutrition today got was from the men who got
their own education in the '30s and '40s. In those days, whole
vegetables and fresh fruits were, with little exception, the only
kind to be had, and in the early part of this century the professor's
admonition to rely on a varied diet would have been sound.
But in the years since
World War II, fresh fruits and vegetables and whole grains gradually
disappeared from the American diet, and were replaced by a plethora
of canned, frozen, processed and refined products, many of them
having little nutritional resemblance to the foods before
processing. In short, Americans had acquired totally different eating
habits during the time between my instructor's student days and my
own, and the change in the foods in the supermarket had sneaked up on
the nutrition establishment, leaving the professors totally unaware
of the hazards and tragedies associated with the new American way of
eating. The crisis is that their students, the nutritionists of
today, are almost as completely in the dark as they were!
In graduate school,
before I learned of the real problems involved in American nutrition
and the role of the Food Giants in intentionally bringing those
problems about, I felt that as a biochemist I would be in the best
position to help solve the problem of world starvation, a problem
about which I was becoming increasingly concerned. One of the term
papers I wrote was on Kwashiorkor. It is the disease of the
bloated-belly, tragic-eyed children we have grown sadly accustomed to
seeing in articles and documentaries about the world's starvation
centers. Affecting perhaps as many as 70 million of the world's
people, Kwashiorkor is caused by a protein deficiency that withers
muscle and nerve tissues. Children in their formative years are the
most heart-rending victims; they are seldom lucky enough to survive
infancy, and even if a Kwashiorkor victim has that luck, the
degenerative effects of the disease are almost irreversible. Entire
populations have been grossly stunted by Kwashiorkor during times of
famine and war, and it is this very stunting of the physical and
mental resources of a people that makes it so hard for those in the
"have-not" nations to achieve peace and plenty.
My research about
Kwashiorkor disturbed me deeply. If only we could find the protein
source so desperately needed to feed these starvation victims! But
there is a greater tragedy to Kwashiorkor, one of which I was
ignorant at the time. The real cause of the disease is not a lack of
food, nor is it a problem of distribution. The real source of the
problem is the way the major protein sources, usually rice and wheat,
are processed before they get into the hands of the hungry. Whole,
unprocessed brown rice is produced in ample abundance throughout
Asia, and whole wheat is available almost around the world; but when
the rice or wheat is processed, i.e., when the bran and germ are
removed, the grain is essentially stripped of all major nutrient
value. These Kwashiorkor victims don't have too little to eat. The
tragic truth is that the food they do get has been ruined before it
gets to their mouths. But I was as naive about the processing problem
as are most nutritionists, and my thinking at the time was that a new
source of food had to be found, a fabricated, man-made food if
necessary, or the hungry would continue to succumb to Kwashiorkor. I
was shocked when my research revealed how widespread the affliction
was, and I decided that I had to go and see for myself what
conditions were like in some of the countries where starvation was a
part of daily life. So, in the midst of my graduate work, my wife and
I traveled to Colombia, South America in 1967.
Many of the things we
saw there we could have seen in New York or Chicago: the big cities,
the crowds, the slums. It wasn't until we went out to the countryside
that we began to see the really serious problems, and the underlying
causes for them. We would ride on the local buses with the peasants
returning to their villages. You can see a great many things from a
bus window.
There were people
leaning in front of their hovels seemingly with nothing to do; yet
the land was teeming with fruit and appeared to be well suited to
other types of crops as well. It seemed to us that there was a lot of
unused land, and we didn't see people tending gardens or working
farms. As I was later to learn, these peasants had been taxed or
otherwise forced off their land, so the land could be purchased by
rich ranchers who ran cattle on the land. While the evicted peasants
starved, much of the land was destroyed by cattle destined for Burger
King hamburgers. The animals packed the ground so tight that, when it
rained, the water couldn't soak in but instead ran off and caused
terrible erosion.
The peasants were being
forced to move in ever-increasing numbers to the urban areas, where
they would join the throngs of starving beggars in the city streets.
In Colombia there are
very rich people and very poor people, and the places where they live
are about as different as day and night. But, there is one common
denominator, one recurring landmark as common to the shiny new
apartment complexes as it is to the tin-hut villages: the Coca-Cola
sign. I found soda pop advertisements were amazingly ubiquitous, and
I travelled to very few places where the familiar red-and-white sign
was out of sight. It cost only a few pennies a bottle in Colombia,
and Coke was very popular. Just how popular it was became apparent
when I attempted to help an old man who really looked like he needed
something to eat. I gave the starved-looking man some money and asked
him to buy two cartons of milk, one for me and one for himself. He
returned with my milk, but he smilingly showed me that he had
purchased a bottle of Coke for himself.
Coca-Cola has extended
its growing empire deep into Latin America. For instance, Coke has
seized control of 42% of the soft-drink market in Mexico. Frances
Moore Lappe and Joseph Collins have written of one small Mexican
village, Olinala, whose 6,000 inhabitants put away about 4,000
bottles of Coke a day! 1
My encounter with the
old man and many other experiences pointed out to me that the people
of all classes in Colombia had made the Western lifestyle their goal
and dream. People would beg and plead to buy a tourist's extra shoes,
blue jeans and pocket radios, but turned up their noses at the
nutritious foods that were growing in their own country.
Many times, nutritional
grains and other foods had acquired a stigma as "poor people's
food." Quaker Oats, a company for which I was later to work, was
distributing a nutritious product in Guatemala at the time, marketing
it specifically for a peasant clientele. This product was a mixture
of various grains and was sold as a gruel, the kind of stuff you see
them dishing out on C.A.R.E. commercials. When I worked for the
company, I found out that Quaker was allowed to market its new line
of toys in Guatemala if the company would also make a cheap,
nutritious food product available. The company wanted to make money
on their toys, so they made the product available without really
caring if any of it was sold. It was put up in drab, ugly one-pound
packages and marketed as poor people's food. Naturally, the poor
Guatemalans had too much pride to be seen buying the stuff in stores,
but a storekeeper told me that affluent people were his biggest
customers for the whole-grain meal. When cooked properly and combined
with fruit, the cereal had a delicious flavor that was far superior
to oatmeal or rice. Yet it was shunned by the people who needed it
most, because it didn't have an image of being some athlete's
"favorite cereal."
I also learned at
Quaker that the stuff sold so poorly that shop owners had to be
bribed into carrying it at all. The shipments of meal came in bulk,
packed 35 pounds to the bag. Also enclosed were 40 individual bags.
The extras were supposedly provided in case some of the regular bags
broke, but the store owners were covertly encouraged by Quaker to
short each of the intended one-pound bags and thereby fill the extra
five, selling all 40 at full price. This was the only way that many
merchants could be convinced to sell the product, and even then,
because of the lack of adequate promotion, it would sit on the
shelves for months on end.
There was also a big
push to get mothers to feed their infants baby foods and formulas
instead of breast-feeding them. Billboards depicted smiling mothers
who fed their babies with bottles as the perfect mothers, while
suggesting that mothers who breast-fed their children were like an
"animal." Thus, formula was the overwhelming choice of
women seeking the Western lifestyle, but by mixing the formula with
impure water, or over-diluting the expensive powder, mothers were
subjecting their infants to diarrhea and death on a massive scale.
Despite the depressing
scenes I had witnessed in Colombia, I returned to complete my
graduate studies with renewed enthusiasm and concern. The trip, along
with the studies of Kwashiorkor, convinced me that I should devote my
life to helping hungry people by working in the established channels
in the food industry. I had been impressed by the efforts Quaker had
seemingly made in helping the hungry. I felt that by producing new
sources of protein and other nutrients, enough food could be produced
to solve the starvation problems of the entire world. At the time it
had not dawned on me what the real cause of hunger in the have-not
nations was; neither did I realize that, right at home in the United
States, malnutrition disguised as "the good life" was
claiming and ruining more lives than anywhere in the world. And I
never dreamed that both problems were caused by the very corporations
I planned to work for.
In my last year of
graduate work I learned about a process for actually creating protein
from things like natural gas. The process seemed simple enough:
Commonly occurring micro organisms were fed on a petroleum product,
dairy wastes, and other chemicals under controlled conditions. When
enough of the microbes had grown and reproduced, they were removed
from their growth medium, dried and used as feed. The process was in
its infancy, and it had never been tried on a large laboratory scale,
let alone commercially. Yet this seemed to be what I was looking for.
My enthusiasm heightened when I attended at Rutgers University a
convention of biologists and researchers who were interested in
working on world hunger. I was very impressed by what I saw and
heard. At the convention I met representatives of the Tenneco
Corporation who later offered me a position on a research team which
would attempt to make protein out of methane — natural gas — a
superabundant material.
It seemed too good to
be true that I could so soon happen on just the position I had always
wanted. I was caught up, as were most scientists in the 1960s, with
the idea that technology, the same technology that had ended smallpox
and had landed a man on the moon, could solve all of mankind's
problems. "Creating" foods out of otherwise worthless waste
materials seemed to be just that kind of impossible dream — so
impossible that it almost had to come true. But I, like the rest of
the world, was soon to learn that, in too many cases, technology is
at the heart of our problems; that it could be used toward devious
ends as easily as it could be used to end human suffering. I pictured
myself working with a big team to perfect synthetic protein, then
building a few big plants in Africa or Asia, where the people would
flock to work and to buy the protein. There was no doubt in my mind
that if we could just create a cheap, nutritious protein source, the
world would hail it as the end of world hunger. The only problem I
saw was in perfecting the technology; I assumed that if we built a
better mouse trap, the world would beat a path to our door.
My wife and I and our
three children made the move to Piscataway, New Jersey, the site of
Tenneco's research laboratories, in the fall of 1968. When I arrived,
I found that our research director, Dr. Ira Hill, had gathered a
small but excellent staff with whom to carry out the project. We had
a diligent bacteriologist who searched the whole country looking for
the heat-loving microorganisms we needed for the process. We had an
analytical chemist to analyze our end product for nutritional value.
We had a talented biochemical engineer to design our equipment and to
do theoretical production studies. He also was experienced in methods
of removing the protein-rich cells from the water medium. My job was
to design and build the small-scale equipment for doing this job. I
would get the various strains of bacteria from our bacteriologist,
who looked at hundreds of strains to find the best, and grow them in
a mixture of water, air and controlled nutrients. I would produce the
bacteria on a small scale, then turn them over to the analytical
chemist, who checked them for purity, safety and nutritional value.
An outside consulting firm did the animal testing of our product,
feeding the most nutritious samples to animals to check the product's
palatability and effect on animal health. Each of the departments on
the research team had several technicians.
When I joined the team
in January, we were set to go. The company representatives stressed
the time element, and seemed impatient that the process be developed
in as short a time as possible. They didn't even take time to build
an addition to their factory, but hurriedly cleaned out a storeroom
for us to work in. There was a rumor that Tenneco's enthusiasm for
the project was due in part to the prodding of a socially-concerned
wife of one of the vice presidents. The rumor held weight because
there seemed to be no one in the company who knew anything about
biological processes. It probably seemed like a good idea to the
corporate brass; such altruistic programs were good public relations
at the time, and Tenneco was producing more methanol than they could
sell. I don't think anyone in the company outside the research team
expected us to succeed. It probably seemed outlandish to them that
you could take natural gas, the stuff you burn in streetlights and
kitchen ranges, and make food out of it. However, they did see the
public-relations possibilities, and used the project in
newspaper ads as one justification for their recent increase in gas
prices.
Incidentally, this kind
of thing goes on all the time. In the early '70s, Northern Illinois
Gas ran large full-color ads in national magazines to inform the
public that they were trying to make food out of methane to feed the
world's hungry. When I tried to get a job with the project I found
out that NIG was spending five times more money on the advertisements
than they were on the research itself. They gave one or two
researchers an annual $25,000 budget — hardly enough to keep a desk
and a secretary. It was all window dress ing, but I would never have
known about it if I hadn't tried to get a job there. When, in the
late '60s and early '70s, it became evident to many people that we
could not go on abusing our natural resources and destroying the
environment in the obscene way to which we had become accustomed, it
was ironic that "environment" and "natural"
became the advertising catch phrases of the very giant corporations
that had brought about the disintegration of the biosphere in the
first place. Petroleum and food companies were the first to take up
the hypocritical call for cleaner air and more healthful food. Since
I was working for a company which specialized in both, it was perhaps
inevitable that I would be caught up in a public-relations scheme.
But this did not
concern us at the time, and we set enthusiastically to work, all of
the staff frequently putting in 14—or 16 — hour workdays to keep
the project moving ahead rapidly. It was one of the best-directed
research projects I have ever seen, devoid of the interoffice
politics and backstabbing that are so common in corporate endeavors.
Every day brought us closer to our goal. By the summer of 1969 we had
made excellent progress in isolating the strains of bacteria
appropriate to our purposes and I began producing the small-scale
batches. By the following autumn we had made enough of a quality
product to begin animal-feed testing, and by the end of the year we
were getting highly encouraging results from our testing.
The tests showed that
test animals—mice — thrived on the protein, and our biochemical
engineer had produced studies to show that our process was
economically feasible. In short, we had done what few believed
possible: We'd shown that protein could be made from natural gas,
that it could be done successfully on a large scale, and that it
could be done cheaply (a pound would cost about 11 cents to produce,
and would provide eight people with 100 % of their protein needs for
a day). And we had done it in one year — half the time we'd been
allotted for completion! Naturally, we were very pleased. We felt
that we had done a great deal of good for the world. As the end of
December approached, we planned a jubilant New Year's Eve party
to celebrate our success.
When we were called
into the vice president's office on the afternoon of New Year's Eve,
we expected a raise and a pat on the back. None of us could recall a
research project that had accomplished so much with so little time,
money and personnel. After all, with our process, a plant
covering one square mile could produce enough protein to feed ten
million people! We gathered expectantly into the office, where the
vice president of Corporate Research sat behind his desk with an
expressionless face.
"Gentlemen,"
he said nonchalantly, "the Board of Directors has decided to
terminate your project, effective immediately."
Our jaws dropped. We
sat in stunned silence as he assured us that the company would help
find new jobs for us, that our families would be taken care of, that
we didn't have to worry about the future. They were actually firing
us!
The party that evening
was one of the saddest I've ever been to. Gone was the enthusiasm and
idealism; my co-workers assumed a defeatist attitude, and none seemed
interested in continuing the project. Another job had just played
out, and now we would have to look for new ones. Several discussed
going into detergent enzyme production, which was at that time a very
lucrative fad for biochemists. It seemed to me that I was the only
one left who still believed in the project. The starving people I had
seen and read about were still out there, still hungry, still dying
by the thousands. And here in our very grasp was the means to end
their suffering, to rid the world of hunger and its resultant
diseases and to bring new hope to millions of people. With this
heart-quickening prospect right in front of them, how could Tenneco
possibly "terminate" the project? No matter what angle I
viewed it from, it seemed unbelievable.
The thoughts tormented
me for days.
Finally, when I could
stand it no longer, I marshalled my courage and called the president
of Tenneco. How could they do this senseless thing?
"Friend," he
told me, "if I had a whole mountain of protein, I wouldn't have
the slightest idea what to do with it. Who's gonna buy something like
that?"
I was dumb struck. What
about the starving millions? Was the profit motive all that counted
for anything? I told myself that it could not be so, that somewhere
there must be a company which would embrace the project and develop
it to full potential. But I was still naive, and I still believed
that the best way to make money was to make things people really
needed.
My next job, for the
powerful and pervasive Quaker Oats Company, would rid me of that
illusion.
NOTES
1. Prances Moore Lappe
and Joseph Collins with Gary Fowler, Food First: Beyond the Myth of
Scarcity
(NewYork:
Ballantine Books, 1978), pp. 330-1.